This is the best 144th topic about home applicances & garden & mowers outdoor power & drill Saw.Read now.

December 6th, 2010 by Shawn Mason

The Beth Chatto Gardens - On Reflection by antonychammond

Ah, yes. The 'kitchen'. I thought I was looking at a formal dining room table and chairs. I backtracke­d to a previous picture and realized it was the island in the kitchen. It's a huge waste of space, IMO. I used to be a real estate agent, I know a bit about what works in a house and how to utilize negative (empty) space. I love big houses but I like them to have a cohesive flow to them.

You don't have huge rooms for the sake of having huge rooms. They need a purpose.

Is it big because:
You have a great view & need the huge windows?
You want to showcase a fireplace?
You do a lot of entertaini­ng and need room for lots of people?
???

Just because you can afford multiple square footage in a house does not necessaril­y make it a bonus for the homebuyer. Rule of thumb: Use quality throughout the entire home or don't even bother. All you'll get is a hodgepodge and you'll confound future buyers.

If you like a particular style or theme then use it consistent­ly. I have seen homes where each room is a different theme and it still works but it takes an artistic eye to pull that off.

Most people want a home that feels welcoming. Would the buyer want to sit on the seller's furniture and put their feet up and feel at home? If yes, then that's a keeper.

If you were blindfolded and led around your home, could you tell which room you were in just by your keen sense of smell?  REALTOR® Bob Kelly says if you answered, “Yes”, then his response is “Uh oh.”  

“You would not believe how many home buyers touring homes are completely turned off to beautiful homes because of odors.  And once the whiff has wafted — it’s over.  They can’t get past it and are distracted the entire time they are in the house.  In fact, they usually can’t wait to leave.

To see if your house passes the sniff test, enlist the help of a good friend, relative, or neighbor who will tell you the truth.  Offer to buy them lunch or coffee in exchange for the rental of their nose.  Here are some things to look out for and suggestions for corrections.

  • Closets odors can build up because they stay closed.  Then, when a buyer opens it, they are hit in the face with the smell of worn clothing and shoes.
  • Bathrooms can smell mildewy from wet wash cloths, rugs or shower mats.
  • Bedrooms can have a strong smell of cologne and perfumed candles.
  • Kitchens often have tell-tale odors of breakfast meats, frying oil, onions, garlic, or ethnic spices.
  • Basements should not smell musty.
  • Pet smells are hard for sellers to detect, but slap buyers in the face.

Covering up odors in rooms is no solution.  Buyers, as well as guests, are too savvy.  You may not detect it since you live there.

Suggestions for combating odors:

  • Never ever cover up odors with sprays, candles, or diffusers.  Buyers will pick up right away on your deception and then be wondering what else you are hiding.
  • If your shoes have an odor to them store them with sections of old knee highs or socks tied off and filled with baking soda.
  • After taking a shower in the morning, throw everyone’s towels and washcloths in the dryer.  You can always wash them later.”

Read more of Bob Kelly’s blog post here.

Realtors: Sign up for your own free Featured Blog on Realtor.com.

Saturday 4 December

Levante 2-0 Atletico Madrid

Osasuna 0-3 Barcelona

Real Madrid 2-0 Valencia

Sunday 5 December

Malaga 4-1 Racing

Malaga produced their best home performance of the season to trounce Racing 4-1 at La Rosaleda.

A stunning volley from winger Eliseu opened the scoring, striking a Dudu corner first time to send the ball whizzing into the corner past Tono, and the tone for the match was set.

Recio struck another sweet effort from outside the area before the interval, and although Markus Rosenberg pulled a goal back with a tidy finish, The Boquerones were not to be denied.

Promising striker Jose Rondon struck twice in the space of three second-half minutes, his first a controlled finish into the corner, then secured the points when he headed home the impressive Eliseu’s cross into the area.

The win catapults the Andalucian side out of the relegation zone, just a point behind the Verdiblancos, who remain in trouble.

Getafe 3-0 Mallorca

Pedro Rios was the star of the show as he inspired Getafe to a comfortable win over Mallorca at the Coliseum Alfonso Perez.

The 28-year-old winger scored a superb strike in the victory at Sevilla last weekend, but his opening goal against the Islanders was even more special, slipping past two defenders before unleashing an unstoppable shot into Dudu Aouate’s top left-hand corner.

Seven minutes later, Rios doubled the advantage, providing the finish touch to a Miku pass, and the Azulones were completely in control.

Daniel Parejo rounded off the win with a killer third ten minutes from time, coolly converting an assist from Victor Sanchez, to give coach Michel breathing space courtesy of their second league win in a week.

Almeria 1-1 Zaragoza

Zaragoza missed the opportunity to edge out of the relegation zone when they succumbed to a late equaliser from Almeria’s Pablo Piatti.

Javier Aguirre looked like grabbing his first win as coach of the Blanquillos when Gabi struck a penalty on 67 minutes following a foul on Lafita inside the area.

But Piatti managed to bundle home a leveler twelve minutes from time from a Kalu Uche, although a draw is a result that neither side really would have wanted, with both sides having won just one match each all season, and Almeria slide to the foot of the table as a result.

Espanyol 1-0 Sporting

Espanyol’s astonishing home record continued with a win over Sporting this afternoon, but they were made to work extremely hard for the three points.

The Rojiblancos gave as good as they got against the Blanc i Blau, who have collected maximum points on their own patch, and their aspirations of adding a seventh consecutive win at the Cornella-El Prat took a jolt when Raul Baena was dismissed on 52 minutes for a second bookable offense.

But Mauricio Pochettino’s Champions League challengers are made of stern stuff this season, and eventually found the breakthrough on 70 minutes thanks to striker Luis Garcia.

Pablo Osvaldo slipped a precise pass into his path, and he placed his chance past Juan Colinas, for the goal that proved enough to solidify Espanyol’s top four position, and simultaneously leave Sporting deep in the relegation mire.

Villarreal – Sevilla 18:00 GMT

Real Sociedad – Athletic Bilbao 20:00 GMT

Monday 6 December

Deportivo – Hercules 20:00 GMT

For more on Spain click ahead to Goal.com's Spain homepage and join Goal.com USA's Facebook fan page!

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This is the best 143rd topic about home applicances & garden & mowers outdoor power & drill Saw.Read now.

December 1st, 2010 by Shawn Mason

Monet Garden by linda yvonne

A young couple thought they got a great deal, $190,000 for a two-story house in the historic district of Bristol Borough, PA with a yard and plenty of space. After they moved in, the headaches, sore throats and difficulty breathing started. Three weeks later, one of their new neighbors told them something the seller had neglected to mention: their new home used to be a meth house.

Searching the DEA website confirmed this, as did an independent lab test that showed low levels of residual methamphetamine.

The two have had to clean and scrub all their possessions and put them in storage, or get rid of them. They are living with their parents while trying to raise enough money to get the place professionally cleaned, which will cost them $25,000.

In PA, there's no law requiring the seller to disclose that the property used to be a drug facility. The couple did pay for home inspections prior to the sale, but they don't cover “checking to see if the house was a meth den.”

The two are trying to get the word out on their blog and also help others avoid their same calamity. A recent post included these warning signs of a potential meth lab

* Unusual, strong odors (like cat urine, ether, ammonia, acetone or other chemicals).
* Renters who pay their landlords in cash. (Most drug dealers trade exclusively in cash.)
* Lots of traffic – people coming and going at unusual times. There may be little traffic during the day, but at night the activity increases dramatically.
* Excessive trash including large amounts of items such as: antifreeze containers, lantern fuel cans, red chemically stained coffee filters, drain cleaner and duct tape.
* Unusual amounts of clear glass containers being brought into the home.
* Windows blacked out or covered by aluminum foil, plywood, sheets, blankets, etc.
* Secretive / protective area surrounding the residence (like video cameras, alarm systems, guard dogs, reinforced doors, electrified fencing).
* Persons exiting the structure to smoke
* Little traffic during the day, but high traffic at late hours; including different vehicles arriving and staying for short periods of time.
* Little or no mail, furniture, visible trash and no newspaper delivery.

Couple's first home is a meth house (Thanks to Stephen!)
Our Meth House [couple's blog]

A Harlem real estate development will become the new home of the National Dance Institute, which provides dance training for public school children. The institute, currently on Broadway near Houston Street, said on Monday that it would take up residence at P.S. 90, a former school building at 220 West 148th Street between Adam Clayton Powell and Frederick Douglass Boulevards that is being turned into condominiums. The institute, founded in 1976 by the dancer Jacques d’Amboise, said it would have offices and studios at the space and would be able to expand its programs. More than half of the $20 million needed to carry out the project has been raised, the institute said.

Despite horrific drops in the values of Orange County housing, a local home still practically costs what three typical American homes go for. Yes, one home here or three somewhere near Main Street U.S.A.

That’s one measure of local affordability, on a national scale. Just ponder fresh National Association of Realtors’ home price data for metropolitan areas: A typical Orange County house sold in the third quarter (median selling price: $508,400), cost 2.86 times the median-priced American home (cost: $177,900 in the third quarter!)

It’s equally troubling in a historic context: This Orange County premium remains higher now that it was in 1989 — the peak of the previous run-up in local housing prices.

To be fair, this “Orange County premium” peaked at 3.42 American homes for one Orange County house in 2004. A 19% drop in local prices vs. a 3% drop nationally in the ensuing six years help narrow the local-vs.-national pricing gap.

So, the big question: Is the premium “worth it?” The math suggests that O.C.’s weather, culture and usually above-average salaries — and usually a good job market — supports pricier local housing. And since 1982, local housing on average has costs double — eh, 2.38 times to be exact — to buy here compared to that mythical median-price American house.

Current economic weakness, no less some major challenges and the local and state level, bring the size of the premium deserved by Orange County housing into question for the future. Remember, one way to increase demand for housing is to be an attractive draw for out-of-towners seeking new employment of lifestyle.

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This is the best 290th topic about electronics.Read now.

November 25th, 2010 by Shawn Mason

1970 Radios, Film & Electronics by Paula Wirth

Flexible-electronics is rapidly finding many main-stream applications where low-cost, ruggedness, light weight, unconventional form factors and ease of manufacturability are just some of the important advantages over their conventional rigid-substrate counterparts. Flexible Electronics: Materials and Applications surveys the materials systems and processes that are used to fabricate devices that can be employed in a wide variety of applications, including flexible flat-panel displays, medical image sensors, photovoltaics, and electronic paper. Materials discussed range from polymeric semiconductors to nanotube transparent conductors, highlighting the important characteristics of each system and their target applications. An overview of the performance benchmarks for the different materials is given in order to allow a direct comparison of these different technologies. Furthermore, the devices and processes most suitable for given applications in flexible electronics are identified. Topics covered include: An overview and history of flexible electronics Novel materials for solution-processable thin-film electronic devices and their properties Low-temperature processing of conventional materials and devices on plastic foils Novel techniques, such as printing and roll-to-roll processing, for large-area flexible electronics manufacturing Materials and device physics relevant to flexible electronics Device integration on flexible substrates Mechanical and electronic characteristics for thin-film transistors and nano-scale transparent conductors on flexible platforms Applications towards flexible displays, sensors, actuators, solar energy, radio-frequency identification, and micro-electro-mechanical systems Written by leading researchers in the field, Flexible Electronics: Materials and Applications serves as a reference for researchers, engineers, and students interested in the characteristics, capabilities, and limitations of these exciting materials and emerging applications.

Download from depositfiles.com:

“1TB in my hands” LG Electronics releases the ‘Ice Cream T’ external hard drive

November 26, 2010 mitman

Seoul, Korea – LG Electronics announced that they will be releasing a 1TB version of their 2.5 inch ‘Ice CreamXD5’ external hard drive , the ‘Ice Cream T’.

The Ice Cream T from LG Electronics means Two, TB, Trend, and Twinkle, and its uniqueness comes from 3 disks of 320 GB put together into a portable sized hard disk.

Also, it has the same name of ‘Ice Cream’ even though it is a larger product and is implemented with the friendly colors and high-tech gloss, with the side point line styling. The side LED notifies connection and data transfer.

It has LG Electronics’ environmentally friendly low power, low noise emission, and is beneficial for the user’s health as well with its RoHS certified, environmentally friendly radiation blocking shield.

Not only this, with the USB 2.0 interface, one can use it without any additional installation, and can be used in various digital products such as PCs, digital TV, multi-media contents player, projector and audio, for providing a lot of content space.

Meanwhile, LG Electronics plans to release the Ice CreamT 750GB model along with the 1TB model, and will hold an event giving away a pouch worth around 10,000 won to celebrate the release of these products.

The price for the Ice Cream T 1TB is around 170,000 won, while the 750GB model costs around 130,000 won (retail), and comes with LG Electronics’ 2 year warranty.

Source: Betanews (Original article in Korean)
Translated by Timothy Nam / Korea.com

From solar chargers for iPhones and Blackberrys to phone and audio accessories made from recycled materials, to programs aimed at dealing with all of our e-waste, there are companies out there creating ways to partake in this digital wonderland while leaving a slightly smaller footprint on our planet.

Solargenix provides a variety of solar powered alternatives to charging iPhones, Blackberrys and laptops with their form-fitting device sleeves and backpacks. They also manufacture generic solar charged batteries that can be used to charge cameras and other electronics using USB technology.

This super cool hybrid charger by Miniwiz is capable of charging your gadgets using the wind or the sun’s rays.

Left: While not an actual gadget, Recellular provides a way to recycle or reuse our unwanted mobile phones. They work with large companies to implement phone recycling programs – 60% of phones are refurbished and resold in secondary markets and the rest are recycled using zero–landfill policies!

Right: Miniwiz unveiled their Dynamo Hub power generator, which attaches to any bike and uses human power to collect energy that can be used to charge most 5 volt devices like cell phones, iPods, etc.

Eco Nation designs and manufactures iPod accessories (such as speakers and headphones) made from recycled materials.

Left: OrigAudio provides portable speakers made from recycled materials.

Right: NAVTEQ, the leading provider of digital map data, has a product called Green Streets which enable navigation software and device manufactures to provide eco-routing, eco-driving, predictive cruise control and hybrid vehicle regeneration opportunities. This type of data enables applications to economize fuel and carbon emissions.

The Miniwiz booth was made from their Polli-Bricks, which are made from recycled polymer and were lit up for the show using a special LED lighting system. Strong, lightweight and naturally insulated, these blocks provide a great alternative to conventional building materials

Miniwiz showcased their solarbulbs – cool solar powered LED lamps that easily screw onto any bottle, turning it into a standing lamp!

Powerstrips aren’t the sexiest gadgets, but this one by Bits Unlimited is really smart and reduces the amount energy wasted when electronics are plugged in all the time. It has a control outlet (plug your computer into this one), a switched outlet (for any device that needs the computer to be connected to work), and always-on outlets. The idea is that when the control outlet isn’t being used (like when your computer is asleep or powered off), the switch outlets turn off as well.

Freelux has created an outlet that allows you to use CFL light bulbs with lamps that have dimmers. It’s perfect for those trying to make the switch from incandescent bulbs to greener and more energy-efficient CFLs!

Place the Freelux light sensor in a sunny window, plug in your lamp, and it will automatically turn it on when day turns to dusk.

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This is the best 133rd topic about home applicances & garden & mowers outdoor power & drill Saw.Read now.

November 24th, 2010 by Shawn Mason

This is the best 278th topic about electronics.Read now.

November 22nd, 2010 by Shawn Mason

This is the best 265th topic about electronics.Read now.

November 21st, 2010 by Shawn Mason

Fry's Electronics - Burbank by rekraP nalA

Electronics Corporation of India Limited is a leading Public Sector Company in the area of Strategic Electronics with thrust on innovation & indigenization. ECIL is looking for dynamic and result-oriented young engineers for its requirement at Headquarters and Zonal/Branch/Site Offices located across India for the following position:

Graduate Engineer Trainee

  • Number of vacancies : 122 (SC-13, ST-07, OBC-30, UR-68 & PH -04 (VH, HH & OH)
  • Age Limit : 25 years
  • Qualification : First Class Engineering Degree with minimum 65% marks in aggregate (55% for SC/STs) from AICTE approved Colleges / Recognized Indian Universities in the relevant discipline.

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Last date : Apply on-line from 22.11.2010 (1400 hrs.) to 04.12.2010 (2000 hrs.)

For more information CLICK HERE

This is a series of lectures written for those with mild electronics background (aka Sophomore in Electrical and Computer Engineering) to learn about the wild world of Embedded Electronics. I assume only that you know what electricity is and that you've touched an electrical component. Everything else is spelled out as much as possible. There is quite a lot here so take your time! It is also my intention to get book-hardened EE's students to put down the calculator and to plug in an LED. Remember, if it smokes, at least you learned what not to do next time!

You can get all the parts for this lecture here.

Sorry for the confusion. When these tutorials were written and photographed, we used the ATmega8. We now carry the newer ATmega328. You will find all ATmega328 information in the following pages, but the pictures will show an ATmega8.

What's a Microcontroller?

You may know what an OR gate is. An OR gate is a logic gate that takes two inputs and controls an output. You may have played with these types of gates, even possibly a DIP packaged OR gate with 4 OR gates built into it. This DIP package required a power pin and a ground pin. Electricity flowed through the IC and allowed it to operate. You may not be sure how the IC was built, but you understand that if you change the inputs, the output changes. You can do this by tying the inputs to either power (also known as VCC) or ground (GND).  You probably played with one of the DIP ICs in a breadboard. If any of this is completely alien to you, don't fret! We'll try to ease you into it.

A microcontroller is the same as an OR gate. You have some inputs, you have outputs. The crazy thing is that a micro runs code. Machine code to be specific. For instance, with a little bit of work, you can monitor the input of two pins A and B. And based on those inputs, you can control an output pin C. So to replicate an OR gate:

if (A == 1 || B == 1)

{

C = 1;

}

else

{

C = 0;

{

It's C code! You can code up all sorts of different applications, compile code, load it onto a micro, power the micro, and the code runs. Very simple! Microcontrollers are used in all the electronics you take for granted such as your microwave, TV remote, cell phone, mouse, printer, there's over 150 microcontrollers embedded into new cars! There's one waiting for you to depress the brakes (BRAKES == 1) and for the tires to lock up (LOCK_UP == 1). When this happens, the micro releases the brakes, and you have ABS (anti-lock brake system).

In the old days, microcontrollers were OTP or one-time-programmable meaning you could only program the micro once, test the code, and if your code didn't work, you threw it out and tried again. Now micros are 'flash' based meaning they have flash memory built inside that allows their code to be written and rewritten thousands of times. I've been programming micros for years and always burn out the microcontroller far before I hit the limit of flash programming cycles.

Flash micros are different than computers and RAM. Computers require tons of power and components to get up and running. Computers run HOT. Computers take forever and a day to boot. Micros are on and running code within milliseconds and if they're warm enough you can feel heat coming off of them, something is very wrong and you've probably blown the micro. Oh – and micros cost about $2.

Now back to that OR gate IC. It had a bunch of pins, all dedicated to being either inputs or outputs of the various built-in OR gates (4 gates in one package = 8 inputs, 4 outputs, 2 power/gnd pins). 14 pins of fun. Now with a micro, the most basic pin function is GPIO – general purpose input/output. These GPIO pins can be configured as an input or an output. Very cool. Each input pin can be monitored and acted upon. Example:

if (PORTC.2 == 1)

then do something…

 Each output pin can be pushed high or low.  Example:

while(1)

{

RB3 = 1;

delay_ms(1000);

RB3 = 0;

delay_ms(1000);

 

}

Guess what that code does? It toggles a pin high/low every 2 seconds. Fancy right? This is the 'Hello World' of the microcontroller world. It seems trivial, but by god when you've been trying to get a micro up and running after 5 hours of tearing your hair out and you see that LED blinking for the first time, it's just glorious!

What types of microcontrollers are there and how do I get one blinking?

Here's a very shallow breakdown of the micros in my world:

  • PIC – This is the classic micro from Microchip. Very simple, very proven, but it lacks many of the features that other mfg's are building into their chips. This is a big deal for me. I was a die-hard PIC person for years and I've started to see the limits of PICs and the benefits of other micros!
  • AVR – This is basically a direct competitor of PICs. They do everything a PIC does, but in my new opinion, better, faster, cheaper, and simpler.
  • MSP – These are very good micros by Texas Instruments (TI), not as beefy as AVR or PICs. However they truly excel at low-power applications. More on this later, but imagine running a complete system on one AA battery for 5 years. This is in the realm of nano-amp current consumption. Crazy!
  • ARM – Why are all these three letters? I don't know actually… ARMs are the new kids on the block and they are huge. Very powerful, very low-cost, they are taking over the world but can be really intimidating if you've never played with a micro before.
  • 8051 – The '8051 core' was the de facto standard in 8-bit (and 4-bit!) microcontrollers. Developed by Intel in the 1980s, it still seems to be the instruction set they love to teach you in college. They are based on archaic, but field proven instruction sets. Very old tech in my humble opinion, but these ICs have been significantly improved over the years (now Flash based, ADC, SPI, etc.).
  • 68HC08/11 – Another very common instruction set developed by Motorola. Extremely popular, and a micro commonly taught at university, it's the microcontroller I love to hate. These original micros often lack on-board RAM and flash based memory.

Google any of these for more info. I have chosen the ATmega168 as the learning IC of choice. Why?

  • 20 MIPs (million instructions per second!) is powerful enough to do some really cool projects
  • It's cheap! $2.13 currently
  • It's got all the goodies under the hood (UART, SPI, I2C, ADC, internal osc, PWM, kitchen sink, etc)
  • 16K of program memory is enough for almost any beginner project
  • The tools are free! (C compilers for many of the other micros cost a lot of money)
  • The programming and debugging tools are low cost ($20 will get you started)

With a little work and probably $40 worth of parts, you too can get an LED blinking. As with any new hobby (also known as a drug addiction), the extra cost of 'goodies' can grow very quickly.

You want to play microcontrollers today?

With any IC, you need to power the thing. There are two power connections on basic micros : VCC and GND. What the heck is VCC? This is the label for the positive voltage. Don't worry, after a few days of this, seeing 'VCC' will become very normal. GND is short for ground. All electrical current needs a way to flow back to ground. This can be called 'common' but is often just labeled GND.

There are thousands of different micros out there, but 5V (five volts) is the typical VCC. 3.3V is also typical but you'll also see 2.8V and 1.8V VCCs on more exotic micros. For now, just worry about 5V and GND.

Where do I find this 5V?

You can get all the parts for this lecture here.

You need to hook up 5V and GND to your micro. Your house outlet runs at 110V AC (or 220V for many countries). AC = alternating current and is very bad for 5V DC (direct current) micros. So you'll need to convert the 110V AC from your outlet to a useable 5V DC.

Quick note: If you reverse the connection on your micro – bad things happen. Always make sure your 5V power supply is connected to the VCC pins and GND to GND. If you reverse this and connect 5V to GND on the micro and GND to VCC on the micro, things won't explode, probably no smoke, things will probably heat up like crazy, and you'll probably damage your $2 micro. You probably will. I did. Many times. Try not to do it.

Ok! You need 5V. Time to build a simple voltage regulator circuit!

You can buy something called a 'wall wart'. Don't ask me why they call it that, ask google. A wall wart takes a higher voltage and converts it to a lower voltage. DO NOT assume a wall wart labeled '5V' will output 5V. This is a major misconception – I know, I know, faulty advertising. Just hook up your multimeter to the barrel plug and see what voltage you read. Probably more like 8 or 9V. This will kill your micro so keep reading! For a more detailed explanation check out the Unregulated Power Supply Tutorial.

Let's assume you are using a wall wart with an output of something nice like 9V. Dandy. Unfortunately this 9V output is rather noisy – meaning there is a lot of ripple. Ok what does ripple mean? You want a DC voltage meaning you want a solid voltage (the opposite of alternating). A wall wart uses some cheap tricks to get 110V AC down to 9V DC. So the DC signal coming out of the wall wart tends to alternate 100-500mV. Instead of a solid 9VDC, you see a signal that rises and falls between 8.5 and 9.5 volts. This 'ripple' can cause havoc with your system, and 9V is too high (we need 5V!) so we need to pass 110V through this wall wart, and send the 9V through a regulator to get down to a clean 5V DC signal. If this all sounds scary – don't worry. After you get your 5V power system built, you'll wonder why you were scared in the first place (it's simple, I swear).

The most common regulator is called the LM7805. Why? I dunno. I've never actually touched a component with LM7805 stamped on the outside. There's always other letters stamped on the outside like 'LM7805' or 'LV78X05' or some such crazyiness. Just know that there are many many manufacturers out there and they are all producing the same basic part, with small tweaks to each one. What you need is one of these generic parts that is designated as a '5V linear regulator'. If you're playing in a breadboard, you'll also want it in the TO-92 or TO-220 package. More about packages in a later lecture, just go with it for the moment.

You've got your regulator in hand, you've got the wall wart. Time to connect them up.

Here you can see the 'pin-out' of the LM7805. Say 'IGO' in your head and commit this to memory (input, ground, output). You'll probably hook up a lot of these. When in doubt, always check the datasheet before hooking up a new part – or else be close to the on/off switch! Input is the input voltage of anything greater than about 7V. GND is ground. Output is the 5V output pin. Your wall wart should have two wires. One is 9V, the other is GND. All grounds need to be connected together for current to flow across the system. One more time – connect all grounds. This is the #2 reason why novii can't get a system to work. For our breadboard, we will be inputting 9V (or whatever transformer you've got up to about 15V) and outputting 0V (GND) and 5V to our breadboard rails.

We are going to go through a bunch of iterations of the power supply, adding parts as we go. Shown above, we have a basic regulator configuration. 9V in, we should see a rough 5V on the output.

Schematic note: The two ground pins are not shown connected. We assume that nets (the green wires) of the same name are connected together. Schematics can get big and complex, so you won't see all the wires together, but in your breadboard you need to connect all the GND pins together. In this case it's the GND wire from your wall wart connected to the GND pin on the regulator.

Cool. But why doesn't the multimeter read 5.000V? Electronics are not that good. The cheap-o regulators are +/-5% tolerate meaning you'll see between 5.25 and 4.75V. In practice, you should see between 5.1 and 4.9V with most run of the mill regulators. You can of course spend many $$ and get tighter tolerances but 5.1-4.9V will work fine for our purposes.

Now we should be worried about ripple. There is noise coming in the input pin, the regulator tries hard, but some of that noise gets onto the output pin. Your multimeter says 5.08V, but that's because it's averaging many readings together and showing you only the average. Do you know someone with a oscilloscope? If so, show them this tutorial and ask them to show you the noise on your 5V rail. With no filtering caps, you could see as much as 200mV of noise.

Whoa – what's a filtering cap? Filtering capacitors are large bulky capacitors that help smooth out ripple. There've been lots of analogies about capacitors so here's another one for ya:

Capacitors act like water tanks. When your circuit pulls a bunch of water out of the system, the capacitor helps hold the voltage up temporarily until the power system can catch up. For example: you may live in a city with water and water pressure. If you take a shower you affect the pressure in the municipal water system ever so slightly. If everyone turned on their shower and flushed every toilet in the city, odds are the water pressure would fluctuate quite a bit! A big water tank helps minimize these pressure fluctuations. A big cap helps minimize the voltage fluctuations on your breadboard.

Is this something you can see happen? Unfortunately not really. You can probably run your system without filtering caps, but it's not good engineering practice. Give it a whirl without caps! But when things don't work, you'll wonder if it's the caps, or your code, or your timing, or maybe you blew out the sensor. Too many unknowns will make you crazy. My recommendation: just use a couple basic caps…

100uF (one-hundred micro farad) on the input and 10uF on the output. You will use a lot of 100uF and 10uF around power systems and you will eat 0.1uF (point one micro farad) caps like candy around micros. These two caps should smooth the input into the regulator and will smooth the output nicely.

Capacitors cannot deliver their stored energy instantaneously. Larger caps (1ouF and 100uF) store more energy, but they react more slowly. The smaller the capacitor, the faster it can deliver its stored energy.  If you have a large power outage (power dips for 10-100ms), a big cap (100uF to 1000uF) will help 'hold up' the falling voltage. A smaller cap (0.1uF) will help suppress higher frequency noise and shorter power dips (noise in the 1us to 100us range). Therefore, 0.1uF caps are located near the microcontroller to help with short bursts, where 100uF and 10uF caps are used on the power rails.

Now you see the schematic symbol looks a bit odd. What's with + and curved lines? This schematic component is indicating that the 100uF and 10uF cap are polarized. Oh jeebus, what's that? Time for a capacitor breakdown:

  • Electrolytic caps: These are larger caps capable of storing 10uF to 1,000,000s of farads. They are cheap and great for bulk capacitance. They are polarized meaning there is a positive pin and a negative pin.

The cap has a minus '-' sign on the cover indicating that pin needs to go to GND.

  • Ceramic caps: These are the cheapest and most common cap you'll play with on a breadboard. They are NOT polarized so you can stick em in the breadboard any way you want. Ceramic caps cannot handle as large of capacitance as electrolytics so you'll need both on your breadboard system.

  • There are many more different kinds of capacitors but for the sake of your head exploding, we won't cover them here.

Okay – now you need to work through some logic here. You know the positive part of the 100uF cap needs to be connected to the input pin, but only the negative pin is marked. Yes it's confusing – but you'll get used to it. Negative marked pin goes to ground, the other goes to the input pin.

What happens if you get them switched? Well here's where things may go poof.

From the left: Bad, good, ugly

This is what happens when you over-voltage or reverse voltage a polarized capacitor. The middle cap is normal. The cap on the left, you can see the top is slightly raised up. This is what happens when the electrolyte inside expands. And the cap on the right shows us what happens when this pressure is so great, it busts through the metal top. Notice the '+' imprinted into the tops of these caps? That imprint is there so that if the pressure does build up, the cap will fail like the unit on the right – rather than blowing the top half of the cap across the room.

This picture was taken from the inside of an old Gateway computer (circa 1999). Gateway had used some 'marginal' 1000uF/16V capacitors. The /16V means they are rated to 16V. A 16V rating means they can withstand voltages up to 16V but no more. These caps were sitting on the 12V rail to smooth out the ripple but obviously they where failing. Gateway was trying to save $0.50 by using a capacitor that was too close to the maximum. Manufacturing is not perfect! With any production run, the population of capacitors and their tolerance looks like a bell curve. The majority of the 16V rated caps can withstand 16V. Some can 18V, even 22V! But the tolerance bell curve goes both ways; a small number of the capacitors rated at 16V will fail at 10V, some at 8V. You get a big enough ripple on the 12V line and you could pop the 16V rated cap. This is why most engineers talk of 'de-rating' capacitors. If you have a 5V rail, you do not stick a 5V rated cap on the rail! A good rule of thumb is to de-rate any capacitor by 50%. So a 12V cap is good to be used on 6V rail, 24V cap on a 12V rail, etc.

Guess what happens when an electrolytic cap fails like the ones above? They quit working. In most cases, they 'fail safe' meaning they won't work as a capacitor anymore but they won't short to ground. The real fun begins when the failure is so bad that the internals fuse together and you get a short to ground – then you can have some fun melt downs! In the case of this computer, the motherboard had all sorts of bad software failures because the power supply had too much ripple! The big filtering caps on the power supply had failed so the 12V was all over the place.

Similar failures can happen if you reverse the polarization of the cap. If the voltage is low (less than around 25V) the cap will probably just be damaged a bit. If you've got a vacuum bell sitting around and you want to really cause some damage, ask a trained professional to hook up 10V cap backwards to 10,000V. It should instantaneously blow up like a pop corn kernel.

For your power supply filtering caps, I recommend using a 25V rated 100uF cap (100uF/25V) on the input and a 10uF/10V cap on the output. Engineers will tell you to 'derate' the cap by 50% meaning if the label says 100V don't trust it past 50V. This is generally good practice. Following this idea, our 100uF/25V is good for inputs up to about 12.5V before we should worry that we may pop the electrolytes. Again, not mandatory, just don't expect a 5V rated cap to withstand a 9V input.

Back to our power supply! Don't worry about blowing things up just yet, you should be at low enough voltages you won't do any harm. Again, if things heat up/smoke/spark, just unplug or turn off the system. Speaking of turning things off – we need a power switch!

This will allow you to turn on/off the system. Handy. It can get really annoying pulling and inserting the power wires to power/kill your system.

Inside the small black enclosure, is a switch. The switch has three pins. It looks like a see-saw inside. The center pin is always connected to the middle of the see-saw and as you slide the switch back and forth, the see-saw rocks up and down. Slide the switch forward and the see-saw shorts from the center pin to the forward pin. Slide the switch back and the see-saw disconnects from the forward pin and shorts to the rear pin. We recommend you connect power to the center pin of the switch. When you slide the switch forward, power will short to an unconnected pin and do nothing (no power to your system). Slide the switch back and the center power pin will short to the wire running into your regulator, delivering power to your system (power on!).

Remember all the warning about reversing VCC and GND and how that is bad? Well if you connect your power supply backwards, that's bad. So let's protect ourselves!

That's a diode (marked D1). A diode lets current flow in one direction (in the direction of the arrow) and it blocks current from flowing in the opposite direction. This will allow 9V to flow in the right direction, and if you accidentally hook your power supply up the wrong way, it will block current from flowing backwards and damaging your system. Is it overkill? Pretty close. But we always design them into our development boards because we don't know what type of power supply you knuckleheads (also known as our paying customers) will plug on to our boards. If you plug the wrong type of wall wart onto a board, we want to protect you from yourself.

There are some down sides to a protection diode:

  • All diodes have a voltage drop, meaning 9V on one side will drop to about 8.5V on the other. So your 9V wall wart just became 8.5V.

  • Diodes have a current rating. If you try to suck 1A (1 amp) through a 0.1A (one hundred mili-amp) rated diode, the diode will quickly heat up and fail. For reverse protection, we recommend a 1A 1N4001 diode. These are dirt cheap and very common.

Note that diodes are polarized. They have a direction that you need to pay attention to. Many diodes have a band indicating the cathode. What's a cathode? Go google. All you really need to know is that the line on the schematic part is the same as the line on the diode. If you can't remember which is which, remember 'arrow is for anode'. Cheesy, yes.

So if you want to install this 'reverse protection diode', the 9V from your wall wart goes into the end of the diode without the band (the anode). The banded end (cathode) goes into your switch. Your switch then goes into the input. Throw the switch and you should see 5V on the output using your multimeter. Nifty. But I am tired of using my multimeter each time to check the 5V output. There must be a better way! Time to wire in the power LED.

Light emitting diodes (LEDs) are bits of silicon that light up when current flows through them. Go google for the science. As a general rule of thumb, LEDs can have 20mA max current flowing through them before they begin to fail.

So if you hooked up your LED like in the above schematic, it would light up very bright for a split second and then burn out. That's cause the LED is a diode and the current will flow from the anode (arrow) to the cathode (line) to ground – uncontrolled! The silicon will flow current at something like 1 amp for a split second and burn up. To limit this current flow to 20mA, we need Ohm's law. Yea, the book worms in the room suddenly perked up:

V = IR (this is Ohm's law)

If we have 5V, and we only want 20mA flowing through the LED:

5V = 0.02 * R

R = 250 Ohm

Now this is not completely true because the LED has a forward voltage drop, but don't worry too much about that. Hooking up LEDs is very common with micros. All you need to remember is that you're going to need to limit the current. The most basic way to do this is with a resistor. 220 Ohms will work (LED will be brighter), 330Ohm is also good (LED a bit dimmer), 1K (1000) will work as well. 220, 330, and 1K are more common resistor values.

I highly recommend you get your hands dirty. Hook up an LED to a 1k resistor, then a 330, then a 220, 100, 50, then finally blow the thing up by hooking it with no resistor. That was fun right? Good. You had a back-up right? Once the bit of silicon inside the LED is burned out, it is no good and the LED can be thrown away.

Eagle schematic / PDF

Our final power supply circuit. It seems like a lot of work, but once you set this up on your breadboard, you might never take it off. This is the basis for all things micro. The input voltage may change, the output voltage may change (to 3.3V for example), but the basics are all there. Flip the switch and you should have a nice 5V rail and an LED letting you know that everything is a-ok. If the LED does not light up, that means that something else on the 5V rail is sucking so much current that the LED cannot light up. This is a very strong indicator something is wrong. If you turn on your system and the Power LED does not turn on, immediately turn off the system and check your wiring.

You may be wondering if the resistor/LED order matters. It does not. The resistor can come first and then the LED or as shown. Either configuration will correctly limit current through the LED.

If you think you may have blown up your LED then your LED will never turn on. You may want to check your power system with a multimeter instead.

Good, you've made it this far. Now for some technical info about ripple/noise and why it's bad.

If you've got major ripple on your power rail, say 500mV or more, this can cause your micro to latchup. This means that it was running fine a 4.8V, but at 4.3V it's not happy and will go into an unknown state. When the rail returns to 4.8V (because the ripple is bouncing the rail up and down), the micro goes from unknown to possibly latching up or freezing up. This is pretty rare these days because the chip manufacturers have done a good job of internally protecting against this, but in general, ripple is bad.

Say you've got 500mV of ripple on your system and you're doing analog to digital conversions off of a temperature sensor. The temp sensor has an output pin that will output an analog voltage that will vary 100mV for every 1 degree C. So at 25 degrees C (room temperature) the sensor will output 2500mV or 2.5V. If your micro is doing analog-to-digital conversions on this signal, it has to compare what it 'thinks' is a solid power rail of 5V against this changing analog signal from the temperature sensor. Well if your 5V 'solid' rail has 500mV of ripple, the micro doesn't know this, and will report a regular 2.5V reading as varying between ~3.0V (3000mV = 30C) and ~2.0V (2000mV = 20C). This is wildly bad. You need a good 'clean' power rail if you are doing anything with analog signals.

Now some notes and photos on breadboards:

Go read Tom Igoe's breakdown of the breadboard. In short, the power rails (the red/blue rows) are connected internally. The columns within the main area of the board are interconnected. So you can insert a wire into one hole and it will be electrically connected to a neighboring hole (vertical connections for the numbered columns, and horizontal connections for the blue/red power rails).

Historically, the blue rail or the horizontal row of holes next to the blue line is 'GND' or ground. You can connect all the ground pins of all your components to this rail. Similarly, the red rail is for VCC. In our case, this is 5 volts.

Power jack, switch, LM7805, power LED

Here you can see power from the barrel jack being delivered to the slide switch, and then to the input pin of the v-reg. When the switch is thrown to the on position, the yellow LED turns on.

I cheated a bit.

Do you see that odd thing in the upper right corner of the picture? That is my wall wart plugged into a DC barrel jack. Most wall warts are terminated with a round connector called a 'barrel'. The outside metal sheath is ground, and the inside metal is 9V. The two metal contacts are isolated. The DC barrel jack accepts this wall wart barrel (wall wart barrel slides into the jack with some friction to hold it in place). I don't like hacking the ends off power supplies and inserting the bare wires into a breadboard. Having energized bare wires bothers me. If the wires get pulled out of the breadboard because you kicked out the power cord, you'll have some tense moments until you get the power brick unplugged. So I soldered some short leads to the barrel jack so that I can plug/unplug my power cable from the breadboard. Easier to transport.

See the orange wire at the end of the barrel jack? That pin inside the DC barrel jack connects to the center of the wall wart barrel. The center of our wall wart barrel connectors are '+' or 'hot' or '9V', whatever you want to call it. So the end of the DC barrel jack is soldered to an orange wiring meaning it is '+'. This orange wire is then connected to the center pin of the power switch.

All ground connections are connected together. You will see a small black wire underneath the DC barrel jack. This is the pin that connects to the outside sheath of the wall wart barrel. This is the ground connection on the wall wart. This small black wire connects the ground of the wall wart to the ground on the breadboard.

I did not install a reverse protection diode. I *only* use center positive power supplies so I know I'm safe. If you do anything similar, check your wall wart carefully with a multimeter before doing any testing.

Note: Our breadboard will have 5V and 0V rails. The blue rail is GND (considered 0V). Red is VCC (or called 5V).

Note on LEDs: LEDs are a polar device meaning you've got to hook them up in the correct direction. Light emitting diodes (LED) have a cathode and an anode. How do you tell the difference? Imagine the schematic element:

An LED

Do you see the arrow? Do you see the flat line? A is for arrow. A is for anode. The physical LED will have a flat side corresponding to the flat line (the cathode) in the schematic picture. And there you go! When connecting an LED, you know that diodes only pass current in one direction (from anode to cathode – in the direction of the arrow!) so the flat side of the LED needs to be connected to ground some how (usually through a resistor first) and the other side (remember arrow) is the anode and needs to be connected to power for current to flow. If you hook it up backwards, it won't turn on, and you might damage the LED but probably not. Just verify that you've got 5V on the correct rail and then flip your LED around if need be.

Power supply with 10uF and 100uF caps in place

Note the polarization of the caps. The larger 100uF cap is directly connected to the Input and GND pins of the v-reg. The '-' sign is connected to the ground pin. The smaller 10uF is connected on the power rails. The '-' sign (in white) is connected to ground, the opposite leg is inserted into the '+' rail. The power LED is on!

Note: The center pin of the wall transformer is connected to the red wire on the rear of the barrel jack. This short wire is then routed by another wire to the slide switch. Do not connect this center pin/9V source to the power rail on your breadboard!

The slide switch has three legs. The center pin is considered the 'common' pin. If the switch is thrown to the right, there is a connection from the center pin to the right pin. Slide it to the left and a connection to the left pin is made. When dealing with power, we want the raw voltage (9V in our case) delivered to the center pin of the switch. When I slide the switch to the left (as pictured above), current is allowed to flow from the center pin to the left pin and on to the voltage regulator. When I slide the switch to the right, the center pin is connected to the right pin (which is not connected to anything). In this state, current does not flow anywhere and the breadboard remains powered down. Voila! We have a power switch.

Power LED is not lighting!

This picture is key. When I initially wired up this circuit, I flipped the switch and the power LED didn't light. That was VERY bad indicating there is a massive short somewhere. Even the good guys screw up now and again. Whip out your trusty multimeter and start probing in continuity mode.

Quick note: I highly recommend you purchase a multimeter with a 'continuity' feature built in. This mode allows you to 'tone' out circuits. In this mode, if you touch the two probes together, you should hear a tone indicating that there is a direct connection between one probe and the other (obviously – you have them touching!). This feature is used countless times during trouble shooting. In the above example, by probing from one GND rail to another, I noticed that I could not get a tone. Therefore, there was a break in the circuit somewhere which lead me to realize the break is in the rails.

If you've got a medium sized breadboard such as the one shown above, you'll notice something horribly odd. The various holes of the power rails are not connected!

The yellow lines show what holes are inter-connected and where the breaks occur

There is a reason why the power rails are broken. If you have a breadboard with multiple and different power rails, you cannot share them on the same row of holes. So modern breadboards break the rails up so that you can isolate different parts of your circuit. For example, if you were building a really complex design you may need to have 5V and 3.3V on the same board. Because the rails are isolated from each other, you could just use various strips around your breadboard to be designed at 5V, 2.8V, etc. For the purposes of this tutorial (and for almost all breadboarding) we assume that you'll only be using 5V and GND.  Therefore, we need to use short jumper wires to interconnect all the isolated rails, forming one continuous 5V rail and one continuous GND rail.

When I first wired up my power supply, I only had the long black/red jumpers on the right side of the board, but didn't have the small jumpers in the middle of the rails. Without these middle jumpers, only the bottom left rails (next to the 5V supply) actually have 5V and GND. Since the LED is connected to the upper left power and ground rails, the LED never got power! Therefore, you will probably need to use very short jumper wires (and some long ones on the end) to connect all the '+' rails (5V) together and all the '-' rails (GND) together.

Some additional nit-picky notes about breadboarding:

  1. You won't listen to this rule. Neither did I initially. Use a few different colors of wire! It's really helpful to see where the power and gnd wires go if GND is black and 5V is red. I wired 200 connections using only orange. When things didn't work, it was hard to figure out where all the connections went.

  2. Don't worry about super-tight wires, and don't use huge loops. When cutting and stripping wire for breadboard connections, don't spend exorbitant amounts of time making the wire perfectly flat. It doesn't matter. That said, don't use 9" of wire when 1" will do. Make it clean.

  3. The 'making things clean' rule applies to LEDs, resistors, and crystals as well. Clip the legs! If you've got OCD like I do, it can be hard to permanently alter a part in this way. What if I need the legs to reach further away on a future project?! It's ok. Resistors cost $0.005 each. If in the future, you need a resistor with full legs to reach from point A to point B, just get a new one. It's not worth having lots of exposed legs that could bend and short to other exposed legs.

Now with your power supply built up, turn your multimeter to voltage and check your board voltage by probing from the Blue rail (0V or GND) and the red rail (5V or VCC).

Note: To use a multimeter you need to use both probes. Voltage refers to a potential. Using only one probe will get you nothing because you have to compare something against something else. In our world, we assume ground is 0V. So touch your black probe to any ground connection. Now you can measure the voltage on any other pin with the red probe. In the picture below, the black probe is touching the ground rail (0V), and the red probe is touching the 5V rail – thus we are viewing what voltage is exposed on the red probe compared to ground. If we put both probes on the 5V rail, the multimeter would show 0V because there is no difference in voltage between the probes.

Guess what happens when you push the black probe against the 5V rail and the red probe against the ground rail? The multimeter will show -5V. This is because the multimeter assumes the black probe is touching 0V. There is still a difference of 5V between the probes so the multimeter shows -5V.

4.98V on the 5V rail

So you don't have 5.000V. Nothing in engineering is perfect. If you're within 100mV you're doing just fine. These cheap-o voltage regulators are cheap for a reason – and we don't need high-precision. 4.9V to 5.1V is just fine.

Congratulations! You've built up your very first breadboard! Now leave this 5V power supply wired in your breadboard! You are going to use it many times…

A 500mA PTC

Quick Note: PTCs are your friend! PTC = positive temperature coefficient. Beginners will often create shorts or accidentally hook things up backwards. A PTC (also known as a thermistor) is a device that will increase in resistance as current flows through it. These PTCs can be designed so that at a certain current flow (let's say 500mA), the resistance increases dramatically, thus limiting the current flow. Basically, the PTC acts as a resettable fuse! You will want to place this device in series, before your voltage regulator. If your circuit draws more than 500mA (if you short power to ground for instance), the PTC will heat up and limit the current to 250mA. Once you remove the short, the current will drop back down, the PTC will cool off and the circuit will start operating normally again. Very cool little component that has saved many of my designs from smoking.

This is how the PTC looks in circuit. The PTC is wired in line. As the current of the circuit flows through the PTC, it will trip if the current is too large, cutting off the rest of the system.

We love feedback! Please report typos, comments, or recommendations to spark@sparkfun.com.

 

Lecture 1 – Background and Power Supply

Lecture 2 – How to Get Code Onto a Microcontroller

Lecture 3 – What is an oscillator?

Lecture 4 – UART and Serial Communication

Lecture 5 – AVR GCC Compiling

Lecture 6 – Soldering Basics

Lecture 7 – SMD Soldering

Lecture 8 – Eagle: Schematics

Lecture 9 – Eagle: PCB Layout

Lecture 10 – Eagle: Creating a new part

Common Mistakes, Tips and Tricks

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This is the best 119th topic about home applicances & garden & mowers outdoor power & drill Saw.Read now.

November 18th, 2010 by Shawn Mason

You Won't Be Bored at Borde Hill Gardens! by antonychammond

Steve Jobs' Not-So-Minimalist Home Office

You'd expect an empty black slate, cold aluminum, and lighting like an Apple Store, if blindly guessing what Steve Jobs' home workspace looked like. The reality is, of course, much more human, lived-in, and interesting.

Getty Images recently made available an August 2004 photo shoot by Diana Walker, a favorite photographer of Steve Jobs' then at Time magazine. The photos were taken a few weeks after Jobs' surgery to remove a malignant pancreatic tumor. Only three of the 15 photos center on Jobs' actual desk in his Palo Alto home, which has a window view, a good bit of paper stacked up, a stylish monitor lamp arm, and photos of his kids ready for viewing.

It's a nice bit of reality check, and a rare glimpse into how one of the most notable creators of the last few decades works when he's at home. We saw Jobs' ultra-spare apartment from his very early days at Apple in our famous workspaces roundup, but the full set, viewable at AllAboutSteveJobs.com, is a richer view of the man himself.

Friday’s game against the Portland Pilots at the Rose Garden, the home court for the Portland Trailblazers, will serve as a de facto homecoming for the freshman forward from Portland, Ore. After signing with a school so far away, he’s ready to head home for a game in front of friends and family.

“It will mean a lot,” Jones said. “To have a chance to play in front of my mom and my grandma as a college player and how much I’ve improved since high school, just to prove how much harder I’ve worked. I’ve improved a lot on my shot and playing harder.”

As he was being recruited by UK head coach John Calipari, Jones was told there was a chance a nonconference game could be scheduled near his home if he committed before a certain date when the schedule would be completed. When he was sure UK was the right fit for him, he made sure to tell Calipari quickly to try and get the game on the schedule.

But Calipari seemed significantly less excited about Jones’ trip home.

“Terrence thinks he’s home to vacation,” Calipari said. “That’s why he thinks he’s home. He doesn’t know we’re playing a basketball game because he’s never done this before. He’s already lined up everything he’s going to do by the minute when he gets home, probably hasn’t listed

the game.”

Jones committed to the Washington Huskies on a TV special, then reopened his recruitment. Shortly after, he signed with the Cats. Still, he’s not worried about being booed by anyone who wanted him to stay closer to home.

Sophomore guard Jon Hood, a Kentucky native, gets to play in front of friends and family during nearly every home game. But he said Friday’s game will probably be more meaningful for Jones, because his family won’t have as many opportunities to watch him play.

“I know he’s excited about going home,” Hood said. “Anybody­­ would be.”

It’s just his second game as a college player, though, and Calipari is worried about how he’ll deal with the emotions and pressure of playing so close to home.

“He and I talked about it,” Calipari said. “I said, ‘I have yet to have a guy go home and play well, so good luck.’ ”

Jones said the key to playing well will be focusing on the game and not thinking about who’s in the stands – even though he admitted “a lot” of people will be there to watch him play.

“Hopefully I play and prove (Calipari) wrong,” Jones said. “I really want to play and show them the whole team. Me with new faces and show them how we are as a team.”

What on Earth?! We cannot believe this went on for so long!

But then again, you can't smell it! Ugh!

This chills us to the bone!

Nadine Coyle recently revealed that she and her family's health were put at risk due to a deadly carbon monoxide leak in her Los Angeles home's cracked central heating boiler!

Thankfully, due to the house's size and ventilation, the condition didn't worsen, but it was only after four months that the singer's mother called a gas worker that the problem was discovered!

She explains:

“My mouth erupted in blisters. I couldn't sleep or eat or think straight. Everyone got really drowsy and we kept having to go to sleep. We all felt like we had really bad flu. My older sister got so ill we thought she was dying.”

That is so scary!

We're glad that the situation was resolved, but for goodness sake, bb!

You are all very lucky to be alive!

[Image via WENN.]

Tags: carbon monoxide, central heating boiler, family, girls aloud, leak, mystery illness, sickness, sister, terrifying, ventilation

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Davis Instruments 6250 Vantage Vue Wireless Weather Station |
Weber 721001 Smokey Mountain Cooker 18 1/2 Inch Smoker |
Black & Decker NPP2018 18-Volt Cordless Electric Pole Chain Saw |
Panasonic Prestige NN-SD997S 2.2cuft 1250 Watt Sensor Microwave Oven Stainless Steel |
Chicco Lullaby LX Playard Adventure |
DaVinci Kalani Convertible Crib in Espresso |
Hoover Platinum Collection Carpet Cleaner with MaxExtract Technology F8100900 |
FoodSaver V3835 Vacuum Food Sealer with SmartSeal Technology |
Zojirushi CV-DSC40 VE Hybrid Water Boiler and Warmer Stainless Steel |
Winix PlasmaWave 5300 Air Cleaner Model |
Dirt Devil 082700 Vision Turbo Canister Vacuum |
KitchenAid Gourmet Essentials Hard-Anodized 14-Piece Cookware Set |
Capresso 465.05 CoffeeTeam TS 10-Cup Digital Coffeemaker with Conical Burr Grinder and Thermal Carafe |
Rowenta DG5030 Pressure Iron and Steamer |
Chicago Cutlery Insignia2 18-Piece Knife Block Set with In-Block Knife Sharpener |
Whirlpool® Whispure 315-CADR Air Purifier with True HEPA Filter AP51030K |
Braun K650 CombiMax Food Processor 600 Watts |
Sealy Soybean Foam-Core Crib Mattress |
Delta Childrens Products Canton 4 in 1 Convertible Crib Black |
Yudu Personal Screen Printer |
Rachael Ray Hard Anodized 14-Piece Nonstick Cookware Set Orange |
Eco-heater 602 High-Efficiency Electric Panel Whole-Room Heater |

This is the best 110th topic about home applicances & garden & mowers outdoor power & drill Saw.Read now.

November 15th, 2010 by Shawn Mason

New York Chinese Scholar's Garden - Emerald Hill Pavilion by anadelmann

Aficionados of home design may already be familiar with the Houzz website, which offers resources for finding decorating ideas. While the site (like most any other) is accessible through the Safari browser on an iPad, Houzz has now released a free iPad app that gives tablet-optimized access to the site's features.

Those features include a library of more than 60,000 photos of various rooms provided by professional designers. Users can sign up for a free account, then browse by style, room type, or region. When users find something they like, they can save it to their own ideabook for future reference. So far users have created more than 130,000 ideabooks. Homeowners can tag items, share photos with friends, or find designers to work with. Professionals, including contractors, architects, and designers, can upload photos to create their own portfolios and find new clients.

I am glad Bill returned. Cats have minds of their own to be sure.
My daughter's nine year old cat with three legs disappeared for over three weeks one time. I was sure that Fluffy wouldn't be back and we were starting to look for a new pet. My son and daughter went for a walk one afternoon and the cat must have heard them talking. She came running out of the cornfield and jumped up at them! With just three legs, Fluffy could run and jump like a normal cat.

Hey everyone, just got back to the Power Shack just in time for “Sarah Palin’s Alaska”

After I watch the show I’ll be doing the “Weekend Update” podcast. I also have received an update from Rachael who worked all weekend long. We knew the subscriber service migration was going to be a big deal, which is why I put it off for so long. There are some lingering issues and I want to thank Rachael for being so thoughtful and diligent this weekend addressing them.

I know some of you are frustrated. Believe me I understand, but I’m hoping that your TAM loyalty will overcome this week or two of irritations. We all got used to things being a certain way, and that predictability will return, but what I’ve done here is change the heart of our process. While the core of it was done very well, we knew certain elemental problems would reveal themselves in the application of the new service. Things like the iTunes process I know is a pain, but the glitches will be solved. I know there are another couple of issues for existing subscribers, but those to will be solved.

At the same time, if you want to cancel your TAM membership, it would break my heart but I would understand. Just email Rachael and she’ll handle it for you. I’m making these changes in the name of ultimately making the blog and Tammy Radio bigger and stronger. We’ve got a lot of work to do, and I hope you will stand with me through this process.

Brother CS6000I Sew Advance Sew Affordable 60-Stitch Computerized Free-Arm Sewing Machine |
Hoover Platinum Lightweight Upright Vacuum with Canister Bagged UH30010COM |
Frigidaire FAD504TDD 50-Pint Dehumidifier White |
Frigidaire Dehumidifier 70-Pint Capacity FAD704TDP |
Cuisinart MCP-12 MultiClad Pro Stainless Steel 12-Piece Cookware Set |
Panasonic SD-YD250 Automatic Bread Maker |
Waste King L-8000 Legend Series 1 HP Continuous Feed Operation Waste Disposer |
Amazon.com $100 Gift Card 0110 |
Cuisinart 77-10 Chef's Classic Stainless-Steel 10-Piece Cookware Set |
iRobot 560 Roomba Vacuuming Robot Black and Silver |
Cuisinart SS-700 Single Serve Brewing System Silver |
Breville BOV800XL The Smart Oven 1800-Watt Convection Toaster Oven with Element IQ |
Shark Navigator Upright Bagless Vacuum Cleaner NV22L |
Hoover SteamVac Carpet Cleaner All-Terrain F7452900 |
Honeywell 50250 99.97% Pure HEPA Round Air Purifier |
Dyson DC25 Ball All-Floors Upright Vacuum Cleaner |
Breville 800JEXL Juice Fountain Elite 1000-Watt Juice Extractor |
Zojirushi BB-CEC20 Home Bakery Supreme 2-Pound-Loaf Breadmaker Black |
Masterbuilt 20010109 Butterball Professional Series Indoor Electric Turkey Fryer |
Toro 38381 18-Inch 15 Amp Electric 1800 Power Curve Snow Thrower |
KitchenAid K45SS Classic 250-Watt 4-1/2-Quart Stand Mixer White |
KitchenAid KPRA Pasta Roller Attachment for Stand Mixers |
Breville BOV650XL Compact 4-Slice Smart Oven with Element IQ |
Jiffy Steamer J-2000 Residential Series 1300-Watt Garment Steamer |
Brother 1034D 3/4 Lay-In Thread Serger |
Soleus Air CFM-40 E 40-Pint Dehumidifier with Humidistat |
Cuisinart DLC-2009CHB Prep 9 9-Cup Food Processor Brushed Stainless |
Cuisinart FP-14DC Elite Collection 14-Cup Food Processor Die Cast |
Hoover WindTunnel Anniversary Upright Vacuum Self-Propelled Bagged U6485900 |
Dyson DC25 Animal Ball-Technology Upright Vacuum Cleaner |
KitchenAid KSM150PSOB Artisan Series 5-Quart Mixer Onyx Black |
Zojirushi NS-ZCC10 5-1/2-Cup Neuro Fuzzy Rice Cooker and Warmer Premium White |
Haier HLP21N Pulsator 1-Cubic-Foot Portable Washer |
Stork Craft Tuscany Glider and Ottoman Espresso/Beige |
Winix PlasmaWave 5300 Air Cleaner Model |
Surround Air XJ-3800 Intelli-Pro Air Purifier |
iRobot 110 Dirt Dog Workshop Robot |
Honeywell 18155 SilentComfort Permanent True HEPA Air Purifier |
Hoover SteamVac Dual V Widepath Carpet Cleaner with Powered Handheld Tool Black F7412-900 |
Cuisinart DLC-2011N Prep 11 Plus Food Processor White |
Zojirushi NS-TGC10 Micom 5-1/2-Cup Rice Cooker and Warmer Stainless Steel |
Hoover SteamVac Dual V Widepath Carpet Cleaner Plum F7411-900 |
Panasonic Prestige NN-SD688S 1.2cuft 1300 Watt Sensor Microwave Oven Stainless Steel |
Zojirushi NS-LAC05 Micom 3-Cup Rice Cooker and Warmer Stainless Steel |
Hoover WindTunnel Canister Vacuum Electronic Bagless S3765-040 |
Evolution Robotics Mint Automatic Hard Floor Cleaner 4200 |
Andis 22360 AGC Super 2-Speed Professional Animal Clipper with Locking Blade |
BABYBJÖRN Travel Crib Light Blue |
Dyson DC28 Animal |
Boss Black LeatherPlus Executive Chair |
Haan Slim & Light Steam Cleaning Floor Sanitizer and Vapor Steamer Model SI-35 |
Calphalon LRS1805P Contemporary Stainless Special-Value 16-Inch Roaster with Nonstick Roasting Rack |
Colgate Classica I Foam Crib Mattress White |
Dr Heater Quartz + PTC Infrared Portable Space Heater 1500 Watt UL Listed Produces 60% More Heat w |
Brother SE400 Computerized Embroidery and Sewing Machine |
Honeywell HFD-120-Q Tower HEPAQuiet Air Purifier with Permanent IFD Filter Black |
KitchenAid FPPA Mixer Attachment Pack for Stand Mixers |
UniFlame WAD820SP 34-Inch Slate & Marble Firepit with Copper Accents |
Stork Craft Hoop Glider and Ottoman Set Cherry/Beige |
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Dyson DC31 Handheld Animal Vacuum Cleaner |
Mr Heater MH18B Portable Big Buddy Heater |
Mr. Heater Portable Buddy Big Buddy Heater |
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Margaritaville DM1000 Frozen Concoction Maker |
Flowtron LE-900 The Ultimate Mulcher Electric Leaf Shredder |
All American 921 All-American 21-1/2-Quart Pressure Cooker/Canner |
iRobot Roomba Pet Series 532 Vacuum Cleaning Robot |
Neato XV-11 All Floor Robotic Vacuum System |
iRobot 530 Roomba Vacuuming Robot White |
Blendtec TB-621-20 1 560-Watt Total Blender Black |
Ronco ST5000PLGEN Showtime Rotisserie Platinum Edition |
Farberware Classic Stainless Steel 17-Piece Cookware Set |
PetSafe PIF-275-19 Extra Wireless Fence Receiver |
Bissell SpotBot Pet Hands-Free Compact Deep Cleaner Blue Illusion 1200A |
KitchenAid KFP750CR 700-Watt 12-Cup Food Processor Chrome |
AR North America AR383 1 900 PSI 1.5 GPM 11 Amp Electric Pressure Washer With Hose Reel |
Rachael Ray 80655 10-Piece Hard-Anodized Cookware Set Orange |
KitchenAid KP26M1XNP Professional 600 Series 6-Quart Stand Mixer Nickel Pearl |
Capresso 464.05 CoffeeTeam GS 10-Cup Digital Coffeemaker with Conical Burr Grinder |
Dyson DC31 Handheld Vacuum Cleaner |
Electrolux EL6984A UltraSilencer Green Canister Vacuum Cleaner |
Rowenta DG5030 Pressure Iron and Steamer |
Black & Decker NPP2018 18-Volt Cordless Electric Pole Chain Saw |
Racor PHL-1R Pro HeavyLift 4-by-4-Foot Cable-Lifted Storage Rack |
Racor Garage Collection |
1200 Thread Count Queen 1200TC Siberian Goose Down Comforter 700FP White 1200 TC with True BAFFLE BOX |
Brother PC-420 PRW Limited Edition Project Runway Sewing Machine |
Factory-Reconditioned KitchenAid Artisan Series 5-Quart Mixers |
Excalibur 3900 Deluxe Series 9 Tray Food Dehydrator Black |
Calphalon Contemporary Stainless 13-Piece Cookware Set |
North States 3 in 1 Metal Superyard 3 Gates in 1 |
InSinkErator SST-FLTR 2/3-Gallon Stainless Tank and Filtration System |
Hoover FloorMate SpinScrub Wet/Dry Vacuum Cleaner H3044 |
Omega J8006 Nutrition Center Commercial Masticating Juicer Black and Chrome |
Nespresso D90/S1 Essenza Single-Serve Manual Espresso Machine Metal |
Cuisinart 77-17 Chef's Classic Stainless 17-Piece Cookware Set |
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SHARK Vac Then Steam Mop |
Dyson DC23 TurbineHead Canister Vacuum |

This is the best 107th topic about home applicances & garden & mowers outdoor power & drill Saw.Read now.

November 13th, 2010 by Shawn Mason

Tintinhull Gardens, Somerset by sminky_pinky100 (In and Out)

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EAGLE MOUNTAIN — Eagle Mountain residents lined the streets Friday to welcome home an injured Utah soldier from Afghanistan.

Sgt. 1st Class Mike Jones, with the Utah National Guard, returned home from his fourth deployment in the war on terror. Local fire and sheriff's departments led the veteran and his family in a convoy through Eagle Mountain on a route lined with flags, yellow ribbons and community members.

Jones is a father of five. He suffered a traumatic brain injury when insurgents blew up his vehicle with an improvised explosive device.

“Recovery's going good,” Jones said. ” got some long days ahead of me, but I think we're going to be good.”

Jones said seeing his family for the first time in a long time made him feel ecstatic.

Work at Home Customer Service Jobs: Requirements

At minimum a work-at-home customer service agent will need a quiet room, a dedicated phone line, a headset with a mute button and a computer. Some companies will only hire agents using the Windows operating system, so be sure to check the computer system requirements before applying to a company.

A certain amount of technical savvy will also be necessary for logging into the call center system. Some companies may have more than one system and the agent will need to be able to toggle between system windows and perform updates like entering billing data into the system. Full training is provided, but agents need to be comfortable with technology to avoid frustration.

Legitimate Work from Home Companies

Legitimate home call center jobs will never ask for application fees or processing fees. A dedicated phone line and headset will need to be purchased, but these are expenses that any new small business owner would incur. Becoming a work-at-home agent is essentially starting a small business: weigh the expenses against the potential income before making large purchases. Check work-at-home job forums like the one at Work at Home Moms online magazine (WAHM) to find postings about legitimate work from home companies.

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OXO Good Grips 10-Piece POP Container Set |
Aerobed Guest Choice Inflatable Bed Queen |
Cuisinart DGB-900BC Grind-and-Brew Thermal 12-Cup Automatic Coffeemaker Brushed Chrome/Black |
Bayou Classic 3016 30-Quart Outdoor Turkey Fryer with Basket and Fry Pot |
Capresso 565 Infinity Conical Burr Grinder Stainless Steel |
Brome 1024 Squirrel Buster Plus Wild Bird Feeder with Cardinal Perch Ring |
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Toro 38361 Power Shovel 7.5 Amp Electric Snow Thrower |
AllerZip Waterproof Bed Bug Proof Zippered Bedding Encasement Queen Size Fits 7 12 in. H |
Presto 1781 23-Quart Aluminum Pressure Cooker/Canner |
Evolution Robotics Mint Automatic Hard Floor Cleaner 4200 |
SportDOG Rechargeable NoBark 10R Bark Control Collar |
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Cuisinart FP-14DC Elite Collection 14-Cup Food Processor Die Cast |
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KitchenAid KSM150PSWH Artisan Series 5-Quart Mixer White |
Haan FS20 Plus Steam Cleaning Floor Sanitizer with Deluxe Sanitizing Tray |
KidCo G15 White Center Gateway with Walk Through Pressure Gate |
Honeywell 18155 SilentComfort Permanent True HEPA Air Purifier |
Cuisinart DGB-625BC Grind-and-Brew 12-Cup Automatic Coffeemaker Brushed Metal |
iRobot 110 Dirt Dog Workshop Robot |
Presto 8-Quart Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker |
Bissell Cleanview Helix Deluxe Upright Vacuum Bagless 21K3 |
Hoover SteamVac Dual V Widepath Carpet Cleaner with Powered Handheld Tool Black F7412-900 |
Angels' Eyes Tear-Stain Remover for Dogs 240 Grams |
Calphalon LRS1805P Contemporary Stainless Special-Value 16-Inch Roaster with Nonstick Roasting Rack |
Zojirushi EC-BD15BAFresh Brew Thermal Carafe Coffee Maker |
Panasonic Prestige NN-SD688S 1.2cuft 1300 Watt Sensor Microwave Oven Stainless Steel |
Corelle Simple Lines Square 16-Piece Dinnerware Set Service for 4 |
Corelle Simple Lines Collection |
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Serta Nightstar Extra Firm Crib Mattress |
Haier MWM10100SS 1-Cubic-Foot 1000-Watt Microwave Oven Stainless |
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mini kick Scooter BLUE for kids age 3-5. Winner of the Oppenheim Toy Portfolio Gold and Platinum |
Black & Decker NS118 18-Volt Cordless Electric Broom Hard Surface Sweeper |
Colgate Classica I Foam Crib Mattress White |
Cuisinart DLC-2011N Prep 11 Plus Food Processor White |
Zojirushi NS-TGC10 Micom 5-1/2-Cup Rice Cooker and Warmer Stainless Steel |
Honeywell 17000 Permanent Pure HEPA QuietCare Air Purifier |
Bunn STX Specialty 10-Cup Home Coffee Brewer with Thermal Carafe |
Flowtron LE-900 The Ultimate Mulcher Electric Leaf Shredder |
Waring Pro WMK600 Double Belgian-Waffle Maker |
Dirt Devil BD20035RED Accucharge 15.6 Volt Stick Vac with Energy Star Rating |
PetSafe PDBDT-305 Deluxe Big-Dog Trainer |
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Zojirushi NS-LAC05 Micom 3-Cup Rice Cooker and Warmer Stainless Steel |
Panasonic NI-L70SR Cordless Steam/Dry Iron |
Summer Infant Sure and Secure 6 Foot Metal Expansion Gate |
SLEEP SAFE BED BUG DUST MITE and ALLERGEN PROOF QUEEN 12 Mattress ZipCover Size: Queen 60 x 80 x |
BUNN BTX-B ThermoFresh 10-Cup Thermal-Carafe Home Coffee Brewer Black |
Poulan Pro 400E 18-Inch 4 Horsepower Electric Chain Saw |
Honeywell HFD-010 QuietClean Compact Tower Air Purifier with Permanent Filter |
Dog Silencer Pro Ultimate Pack |
Petsafe PDLDT-305 Deluxe Little-Dog Remote Trainer for Pets Under 40 Pounds |
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Breadman TR520 Programmable Bread Maker for 1- 1-1/2- and 2-Pound Loaves |
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George Foreman GRP90WGR Next Grilleration Electric Nonstick Grill with 5 Removable Plates |
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InSinkErator Badger 5 1/2 HP Food Waste Disposer |
Cuisinart DGB-650BC Grind-and-Brew Thermal 10-Cup Automatic Coffeemaker Brushed Metal |
iRobot Roomba Pet Series 532 Vacuum Cleaning Robot |
Bounty Hunter TK4-PL Tracker IV Metal Detector |
KitchenAid FPPA Mixer Attachment Pack for Stand Mixers |
Bissell Cleanview Helix Upright Vacuum Cleaner Bagless 82H1 |
Brother SE400 Computerized Embroidery and Sewing Machine |
Panasonic NN-H765BF Full-Size 1.6-Cubic-Feet 1250-Watt Microwave Oven Black |
Panasonic 1.6 cu. ft. 1250-Watt Microwave with Sensor Cook |
Max Burton 6200 Deluxe 1800-Watt Induction Cooktop |
Ronco ST5000PLGEN Showtime Rotisserie Platinum Edition |
Brother LS2125I Easy-To-Use Lightweight Basic 10-Stitch Sewing Machine |
Sangean H201 AM/FM Digital Shower Radio |
Honeywell HFD-120-Q Tower HEPAQuiet Air Purifier with Permanent IFD Filter Black |
KitchenAid KFP750CR 700-Watt 12-Cup Food Processor Chrome |
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Dyson DC31 Handheld Vacuum Cleaner |
Rowenta DW9080 Steamium 1800-Watt Steam Iron with 400-Hole Platinum Soleplate |
Sony ICF-C7IP Clock Radio for iPod and iPhone with Hidden Sliding Dock Tray |
Cuisinart CPT-170 Brushed Stainless-Steel 2-Slice Toaster with Countdown Timer |
Eureka 3684F Pet Lover Mighty Mite |
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1200 Thread Count Queen 1200TC Siberian Goose Down Comforter 700FP White Solid 1200 TC with True BA |
KitchenAid KP26M1XNP Professional 600 Series 6-Quart Stand Mixer Nickel Pearl |

This is the best 103rd topic about home applicances & garden & mowers outdoor power & drill Saw.Read now.

November 10th, 2010 by Shawn Mason